Hill Gardens of Maine - A Few Words for the First Time Gardener

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A Few Words For The First-Time Gardener
by Fred Davis, MG, Hill Gardens of Maine (To view other articles, click Archives)

Welcome through Fred's Garden Gate! Did I hear you correctly? You're just "starting out" in the rewarding (and often exhausting) hobby of gardening? Think you'd like to grow your own vegetables, instead of limiting your choices to that natural-looking, neatly-arranged assortment of mostly foreign-grown produce in the supermarket? Are you concerned that, in all likelihood, supermarket vegetable offerings may contain substances (additives, pesticides and other chemicals used in their production) over which you have absolutely no control, and that you'd prefer not to serve to your family?

Then you're among a growing number of consumers with a yearning to take control over the quality and content of at least some of the food they consume, and have made the decision to grow their own. Below are some helpful tips for the health-conscious neophyte veggie gardener. . .tips not cast in stone, but ones that will improve your chances of success and satisfaction.

First, your new garden's location. Most vegetables grow and mature best in full, uninterrupted sunlight. You've probably noticed that the big, profitable market-growers don't have too many trees in and around their production fields. Eight to ten hours is preferable, but that may be a bit difficult for most home-gardeners. Try for an absolute minimum of six full hours of sunshine during the brightest part of the day. Save the shady spot in your yard for the hammock. 650 to 1,000 square feet of space is about average for a home vegetable garden. Be careful not to bite off more than you can comfortably chew! If you find you need more space, you can always expand the following year.

If your new garden is now lawn or weeds, here's a word of caution: crabgrass, Bermuda grass, and dandelions, tilled into the soil, will quickly return to haunt any gardener. Take the time to remove all weeds—leaf, stem and root—before starting the garden. Most invasive weeds (any plant that's in the wrong place) will re-grow from the tiniest fragment. Roto-tilling a patch of lawn is probably the most common—and tragic—mistake made by enthusiastic novice gardeners.

Soil preparation is next. Don't begin until the soil is drained well enough that a handful of soil squeezed into a lump breaks apart when dropped from about chin-high. Resist the temptation to disturb soil that's gooey and sticks together. I've always preferred to prepare a new garden soil with a spade. . .and I like to drive that spade completely to the "hilt" and turn my soil upside-down—literally. That's 10-12" deep. Homeowner-size roto-tillers simply don't cultivate deep enough—4-6" tops.

Soil that's been lawn or field weeds, and hasn't been cultivated for several years, is probably "dirt-poor." As you turn your new food-growing plot upside-down, mix in organic material such as compost or sterilized cow or horse manure to make it rich, deep and loamy. Three or four inches worked in deeply would be great!

Now's the time for a soil test! A mailer and complete instructions are available at your local Cooperative Extension office. Cost for a test is in the range of $12. . .good insurance for enhancing your chances of success right from the start! While at the Extension office, ask about their selection of very helpful publications (most are free) to help you get off on the right foot. More information for the new gardener can be found in "Archives" on this site; then look for "Vegetable Gardening"—there's a complete series of articles that will give you basics and more. You can also download a complimentary copy of Keys to the Garden Gate while you're here!

Select your seeds, sets, transplants, and roots carefully and based on your preferences, availability and quality. Never settle for tall, spindly vegetable transplants, or ones which have already begun to bloom or have set fruit. Those are "dead-end"—and no bargain. Look for strong, stocky plants that have a solid, healthy appearance and color.

Most nurseries and garden centers will carry one or more lines of packaged seeds. Personally, I get my seeds from quality local sources, and stay away from the bargain racks at markets and those big-box stores. I like my seed fresh, and I take comfort in the assurance of optimal, carefully controlled storage conditions. Give Johnny's Selected Seeds a try.

Fertilizer is, of course, an important consideration. I prefer to avoid use of bagged, granular, non-natural mixtures in soil that'll grow my food. Yes, you can use the recommended 10-10-10 (a "balanced" commercial plant food), but for me, the jury's still out on its long-term consequences on human health. In my mind, a safer choice would be an organic mixture of naturally-occurring plant nutritional elements available at most large farm-'n-gardens and garden centers. On average, 50 pounds would be about right for that 1,000 square foot plot. You'll know better once the soil test comes back. You'll find further guidance on soil nutrition and natural fertilizers in Archives. Get the fertilizer thoroughly tilled-in a few days before you actually sow your seeds or plunk in your transplants. (Special Report on Fertilizers [.pdf])

So, as soon as spring arrives, off you go! Enjoy your new garden—and keep a stiff upper lip, a smile on your face and a song in your heart! One final thought: don't be afraid to ask questions. A neighborhood successful gardener is a tremendous resource. So also is the local library. And your State's Cooperative Extension Office can put you in touch with a Master Gardener or two for some first-rate and accurate gardening assistance.

Fact is, why not consider becoming a Master Gardener yourself? The Extension offers courses; the price is right; times are convenient; instruction is by top-notch professionals; and then you'll be the expert——and successful! Hey!...what's wrong with that?

Finally, you may be interested in reading through the 8-part series on Vegetable Gardening on this site.

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