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DROUGHT TOLERANT PLANTS FOR NEXT YEAR
by Fred Davis, MG, Hill Gardens of Maine (To view other articles, click: Archives)

Welcome through Fred's Garden Gate! Seems strange to be talking about next year already. Why, it seems like just the other day daffodils were at their peak and buds were fattening for their annual burst of growth and spring color. We learned a great deal from the experience of 1998 in the garden: 1. You can’t rely on the weather; 2. You can’t rely on the weather; and 3. You can’t rely on the weather.

While ample soil moisture encouraged our gardens along during the first third of the season, later rain deficits left many of us with wilted plants, scorched blossoms and decreased resistance to – or tolerance of – resulting stress-encouraged insects and foliar disease. I believe just about everyone now realizes that our supply of ground water is no longer infinite. Problem is that we seem to have fallen into the dangerous and thirsty rut of planting types of perennials, shrubs and trees which demand large amounts of water. Knowing that water is not as renewable a resource as it was once thought, doesn’t it make sense to make some conservation adjustments in our own gardens? Of course it does! So, this time let’s briefly revisit a few water conservation gardening methods, then check out a list of plants more suited to rationed amounts of moisture.

Most important in conserving soil moisture is a good, deep, organic MULCH. In addition to retaining water, mulch moderates and stabilizes soil temperature, prevents all but the most aggressive weeds, provides winter protection and dresses up the garden. And I’m not talking about a mere sprinkling of bark nuggets! To be effective, a mulch needs to be at least four inches deep – six inches would be better.

SUPPLEMENTAL WATERING is our second consideration. A common mistake is the frequently seen, quick "hit and a lick" with a sprinkler even if it is done early in the morning or late evening. Plants need an inch of water every week; fifteen or twenty minutes of splashing around with a hose and nozzle once every couple of days might penetrate into the surface inch or less, but most plants send their roots much deeper. Sprinkling the surface actually causes most plants to become even less drought tolerant. If the only available water is at the surface, plants must send their roots into that highly-variable environment to get a drink, eventually resulting in severe stress when rains fail to materialize or the gardener forgets to water.

One effective method of getting water down where the roots are is through the use of an underground system – a buried soaker hose, for example. A less expensive way would be deep once-per-week soakings after mulch is in place.

Finally, plant selection plays a significant role in combating drought. Refer to this condensed list of annuals, perennials and shrubs.

ANNUALS: Phlox; coreopsis; cape marigold; cornflower; four-o’clocks; larkspur; morning glory; portulaca; sunflowers; and zinnias.

PERENNIALS: Gypsophila (baby’s breath); gaillardia (blanket flower); liatris (blazing star); asclepias (butterfly weed); chamomile; columbine; euphorbia (spurge); inula; baptisia; some campanulas; papaver (poppy); alyssum; aster; mallow; arabis (rock cress); cerastium (snow in summer); and helianthus (sunflower).

SHRUBS: Barberry; bayberry; most junipers; rugosa rose; and fragrant sumac.

Additionally, just about any tree common to the Northeastern woodlands can deal with relatively long periods of drought – maple; birch; beech; oak; poplar; and virtually all of the "evergreens".

Gardeners have a responsibility to conserve – and therefore preserve – what remains of our fresh water supplies. As you prepare your garden for next season, I recommend you give serious thought to selecting plants which can survive with far less artificial watering. As time goes on and resources dwindle, yours could be one of the "survivor" gardens!

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